The following is a series of tips and general advice for effectively cleaning your airbrush.
Cleaning During Colour Changing
When changing colors, or for quick cleans:
Gravity Feed Airbrushes:
Fill the cup with water or the appropriate airbrush cleaner.
Use a stiff bristle brush to mix the fluid and paint.
Spray out or pour out the water/cleaner from the cup.
Refill the gravity cup with cleaner and spray through until the flow runs clear. (We recommend spraying at a higher pressure (40-50 PSI) to help remove pigments from the nozzle.)
Suction/Bottom Feed Airbrushes:
Have two clean suction feed bottles: one with water and one with the appropriate airbrush cleaner.
Use water to remove most paint residue.
Spray through the cleaner at high pressure until the spray runs clear.
Use cleaning brushes or Q-tips to remove any residue from the suction connector on the airbrush body.
Backward Flushing:
This is crucial for removing stubborn paint pigments from inside the nozzle. Simply cover the needle cap at the front of the airbrush; this blocks airflow and forces air and fluid back into the cup. Note that airbrushes with ventilated or open air cap guards may require a special nozzle cap to make this task easier.
Solvent Cleaners & O-rings:
If using solvent-based airbrush cleaners, be aware that only branded airbrushes typically have PTFE (Teflon) washers. Using solvent cleaners on cheaper, unbranded airbrushes can damage rubber O-rings, leading to internal air leaks and poor performance.
Cleaning After Use
For a more complete clean to keep your airbrush in top condition, we recommend following these steps immediately after finishing your airbrushing session, while the paint residue is still wet. If paint dries, it may require soaking the nozzle/airbrush in cleaner or solvents.
First, follow the cleaning techniques described in the “Cleaning During Colour Changing” section above.
Unscrew and remove the airbrush handle.
Loosen the needle locking/chuck nut and gently draw the needle back until its tip is visible in the gravity cup/suction connection.
Unscrew the air cap and needle cap/guard. Clean them internally and externally with a Q-tip soaked in airbrush cleaner.
(Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes have a free-floating nozzle that’s easy to remove after unscrewing the air cap.
Many unbranded airbrushes and brands like Iwata have screw-in nozzle systems that require a nozzle spanner for removal.)
Soak the airbrush nozzle in the appropriate airbrush cleaner. An Ultrasonic Cleaner is highly recommended for this purpose.
Push the needle forward and carefully remove it from the front of the airbrush, taking care not to damage the tip.
Wipe residue paint from the needle with a cloth dampened with airbrush cleaner, then coat it with a few drops of airbrush lubricant.
Insert the needle back into the airbrush body from the front and pull it back until the needle tip can be seen in the gravity cup or suction feed connector.
Refit the needle locking nut, but do not tighten it fully yet.
Refit the nozzle, air cap, and needle cap to the front of the airbrush body. Be careful with screw-in nozzle systems to avoid over-tightening, which can damage or break the nozzle.
Gently slide the needle forward until you feel resistance (when the needle meets the nozzle) & then tighten the needle locking nut. Take care not to force or push the needle too far forward as this can split/damage the nozzle.
Reconnect the airbrush to your air supply and blow any remaining fluid through the brush.
Following these procedures will ensure your airbrush is fully cleaned, providing years of trouble-free airbrushing.
Please Note: Never immerse the air valve assembly in solvent, as all airbrush air valves contain at least one rubber O-ring that can be damaged.
